Things to Do in Yaren in March

March is arguably the best time to tackle the island's interior. The tracks around the old phosphate mining areas and the dense vegetation of Buada Lagoon are still passable and green, not yet baked dry and dusty. The air is heavy with the smell of damp earth and tropical blooms after a rain. It's a stark, otherworldly landscape, the jagged coral pinnacles, the quiet lagoon, the rusting mining relics, that feels most poignant when the island is lush. The occasional shower just adds to the atmosphere, and you'll likely have the place to yourself. Go early.

The swell from the Pacific has usually settled by March, making Anibare Bay, that long, sweeping arc of sand, much more swimmable. The water is bath-warm, and the reef close to shore is teeming with life. You'll hear the constant click and pop of the reef, and feel the surprising coolness of the deeper channels as you float over them. The walk along the bay from the Menen Hotel to the cliffs at the southern end is a must-do in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light turns the phosphate cliffs a deep gold and the trade winds offer a brief respite from the humidity. Don't miss it.

Yaren's central market, such as it is, has a different rhythm in March. The catch coming in from the fishermen is more varied as the seas calm, and you might see wahoo or mahi-mahi alongside the usual tuna. The real experience is less about buying and more about observing: the slap of whole fish on concrete counters, the scent of salt and seaweed, the shouts in Nauruan and Kiribati. This is the month to try ika, raw fish, if it's on offer, often marinated in coconut cream and lime, a perfect counterpoint to the humid air. The small eateries nearby serve the best and simplest grilled fish you'll find. Arrive hungry.

Walking Yaren's compact government district is a morning or late-afternoon activity, ideally timed to avoid the peak sun. You can feel the history in the worn concrete of the Parliament House, the Aiwo, and the old colonial administration buildings, their edges softened by bougainvillea. The sound of the debate from the parliament chamber, if it's sitting, mixes with the rustle of palm fronds. The Japanese WWII guns and communication bunkers up on Command Ridge are sobering, and the climb up has a breeze you won't find at sea level. In March, the occasional rain shower can suddenly slick the coral-rock paths, so watch your step. Start early.